Island Peak ClimbingIsland Peak Climbing

Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Climbing

Trip Highlights
  • Conquer two 6,000 meters (19,685 ft) above mountains- Island Peak and Ama Dablam
  • Explore the picturesque villages and lush forests of the Khumbu region
  • Spend nights in Sherpa villages while trekking and get to know the locals and their lifestyle
  • Pre-climbing training before pushing toward the summit of both peaks
  • Our supporting crew will take care of tents and meals so you can focus on climbing and resting
  • Witness diverse landscapes and surreal mountain vistas
  • Learn to navigate Himalayan mountains and hone your climbing skills
  • Spend time unwinding and push your limits
  • A perfect adventure filled with challenges in Nepal

The Ama Dablam expedition with Island peak climbing lets you conquer two more than 6,000 meters (19,685 ft) above peaks in the Himalayan range of Nepal. Mount Ama Dablam and Island Peak both are quite famous in Nepal for beginner climbers. If you are stepping into climbing for the first time in Nepal, then the Island Peak is one of the great options. Likewise, if this is your first time approaching a technical mountain, then Ama Dablam is a fantastic option to start with.

Island Peak is located in the Chukkung Valley and was first climbed in 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing as their practice peak before the Everest expedition. Island Peak is 6,189 meters (20,305 ft) above sea level and offers a perfect technical scenario for beginner climbers to hone their climbing skills. The view of Mount Everest from the top of the Island peak is just unbelievable.

Mount Ama Dablam is 6,812 meters (22,349 ft) above sea level. It was first climbed by the expedition team of Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ) on 13 March 1961. Ama Dablam is one of the mainstream Himalayan mountains open for climbing. We will approach the summit from the southwest route, making three camps, not including the base camp, before we touch the summit.

Climbing both mountains requires strong fitness, mental resilience, and previous climbing experience. You need to have an understanding of rock climbing, ice climbing, first aid, etc. Before pushing towards the base camp, our guide will give you pre-climbing training, which will help you boost your confidence. First, we will climb the Island peak and then head towards Ama Dablam.

Climbing Island Peak is relatively manageable. However, during the Ama Dablam climbing, we will make three camps and also do rotation climbing to adjust to the elevation before pushing toward the summit. Our crew will help you set up the tents and prepare the meals. The views of Everest (8,849 m/29,032 ft), Lhotse (8,516 m/27,940 ft, Nuptse (7,861 m/25,791 ft), Makalu (8,463 m/27,766 ft), Cho Oyu (8,188 m/26,864 ft), Kanchenjunga (8,586 m/28,169 ft), Pumori (7,161 m/23,494 ft), Thamserku (6,608 m/21,680 ft), etc, are phenomenal from both mountains.

During trekking, you will spend nights in Sherpa villages, including the famous Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,290 ft), and hike to Hotel Everest View (3,962 m/13,000 ft). You will also visit the ancient Tengboche (3,860 m/12,660 ft) and Pangboche (3,985 m/13,074 ft) monasteries. Our Ama Dablam expedition with Island peak climbing itinerary does not go to Everest base camp (5,364 m/17,598 ft, but you can definitely extend the itinerary. It will help you acclimatize and explore the region further.

Join us on this adventurous lifetime endeavor in Nepal and reach the top of two Himalayan mountains. Our expert team of mountaineers will help you achieve your goal and ensure your safety during climbing. We have opened our booking for the Ama Dablam expedition with Island peak climbing 2023/2024/2025. Get in touch with us now for more information.

Itinerary

Upon landing at the Tribhuvan International Airport, you can meet our representatives around the terminal gate with your nameplate. They will welcome and escort you to the hotel in a private vehicle. You will reach the hotel in 20 to 30 minutes. Freshen up and get some rest. Later, meet the mountain guide and do the final packing for the expedition.

  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast only

From Kathmandu, we will fly to Lukla, the entrance of the Khumbu region. This short flight offers breathtaking aerial views of the Himalayas. Once we land in Lukla, the porters will join our team, and we will begin trekking. Following the forests of rhododendrons and magnolias, the trail descends, crossing numerous suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River. We will also trek past small villages like Cheplung, Ghat, and Phakding on the way to Monjo.

  • Duration: 35 minutes flight & 4-5 hours trek
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

From Monjo onwards, the trail enters the Sagarmatha National Park. We will register our permits at the checkpost and continue trekking through lush forests. The trail gradually ascends via small settlements and crossing suspension bridges. The final ascent to Namche Bazaar is steep. While trekking, you will see a glimpse of Mt. Everest on this day, along with a view of other mountains like Khumbula, Thamserku, Kongde Ri, etc.

  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Today, we have an acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar. For the hike, we will ascend to the famous Hotel Everest View. From here, we get to see quite a clear view of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Nuptse, and Mt. Ama Dablam. While hiking, other mountains like Thamserku, Chamlang, etc., are seen. The hiking route ascends along uneven hillsides.

After the hike, return to Namche Bazaar to spend the night. Visit the Everest Photo Gallery and Sherpa Culture Museum. Explore Namche Bazaar, as there are many shops, cafes, and restaurants around the village. If any gear or essentials are missing, you can buy/rent it here too.

  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Leaving Namche Bazaar, the trail ascends to Kyangjuma and further descends to Phungi Thanga. On the way, we will cross a suspension bridge. From Phungi Thanga, we will follow an uphill trail that leads to Tengboche village. After visiting the Tengboche monastery, we will continue descending via lush rhododendron forests to Deboche. The trail drops to the Imja Khola and ascends to Pangboche village, crossing a bridge.

  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

The trail is short on this day. From Pangboche, we will further trek to Dingboche village, the summer valley of the Khumbu region, where we can see fields of barley, potatoes, etc. We will follow the rugged, steep trail, enjoying a stunning mountain panorama of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, etc.

  • Duration: 4 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

We will spend this day acclimatizing in Dingboche village. For the hike, we will go to Nagarjuna Hill, following a rocky path. From Nagarjuna Hill, we get to see an excellent view of mountains like Everest, Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Makalu, etc. After the hike, we will return to Dingboche and spend the remaining day resting.

  • Duration: 6-7 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

The trail from Dingboche continues to Chhukung Valley. We will follow a narrow, steep path filled with boulders and rocks. We have to be extra careful because the trail is quite offbeat. Once we reach the base camp of Island Peak, our supporting crew will set up the tents and prepare the meal. Your guide will give you a pre-climbing training later in the day. You will learn basic climbing skills.

  • Duration: 4-5 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Today, we will summit the Island Peak. We will wake up around 2:00 AM and begin climbing. Reaching the summit before noon and returning is crucial to avoid the strong wind. Following the lead of our guide, we will gradually start climbing. From the base camp, the route ascends a few hundred meters easily and joins a sharp incline on a sandy trail.

We will soon start walking on the grassy trail and then over boulders. As we move further, the route gets narrow and enters a steep rocky ravine. As we come out of the ravine, the guide will fix the ropes. We will climb on the snowy slope to the ridge of the summit. The top of the mountain will reward us with a sensational panorama.

We will enjoy our moment here and begin descending, following the same route back to the base camp. The rest of the crew will be waiting for us at the base camp with a warm celebration meal. We will soon pack our stuff and trek back to Chhukung village to spend the night.

  • Duration: 10-12 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

The trail from Chhukung to Pangboche is the same. We will trek back to Dingboche and descend from here to Pangboche. On the way, we will trek past villages like Orsho and Shomare.

  • Duration: 5-6 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Now, we will proceed toward the second mountain, which is much more challenging. From Pangboche, we will trek on an isolated route that leads to the base of Mt. Ama Dablam. The route is steep and rocky. Upon reaching Ama Dablam, the team will set up the base camp. We will have the remaining day to rest and later join our guide for pre-climbing training. During this training, we will learn basic mountaineering. It will boost our confidence further.

  • Duration: 5-6 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

After a delicious breakfast, we will leave the base camp and ascend to Camp I. It is short and easygoing climbing on a stone-covered 100m long track. The route also has huge rocks. We will climb on the fourth-class piece with no fixed rope. Soon, we will reach the edge, where we will put the tents.

  • Duration: 5 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

On this day, we will ascend to Camp II, which is a kind of tricky and technical segment of our climbing. Scrambling and moving along the fourth-class stone edge, we will gain 300m/1000m vertical feet. The area opens up with massive drop-offs on both sides. Towards the edge, climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters (considered French fourth class, British severe, and North American YDS 5.5) and reach the Camp II location. Later, we will descend to Camp I to spend the night.

  • Duration: 3 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

We will descend back to the Ama Dablam base camp today. This was our rotation climbing to let us acclimatize and familiarize ourselves with the route. We use the same route to descend to the base camp that we used to ascend.

  • Duration: 5 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

We will spend this day resting and recovering at the base camp. The team leader will plan the final approach and make sure we get a good weather window to push towards the summit. Eat lots of food and keep your body moving.

  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

We will leave the base camp and retrace our steps to Camp I. Following an easygoing track, we will climb 100m on a rocky field. From here, we will climb via huge rocks and tackle a fourth-class piece with no fixed rope. As we have climbed before, the climb will not come across as very demanding.

  • Duration: hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

The climb continues via a complicated technical section. We will climb along the fourth-class stone edge and gain 300m/1000m vertical feet. From here, the area opens up with massive drop-offs on both sides. Towards the edge, we will again climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters and reach the Camp II location. Today, we will spend the night here.

  • Duration: hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

The route from Camp II to Camp 2.7 includes mixed ice and snow terrain. We will use fixed rope in this section. The route crosses the infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6,150 meters (20,300 ft) and reaches the campsite. Our crew will set up the tent and prepare the dinner. The views of Mt. Kantega, Ama Dablam summit, and other mountains are excellent on the way.

  • Duration: 2 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Today, we will wake up around 2:00 AM and begin preparing for our summit push. Following the lead of our guide, we will gradually ascend on two snow-ice (40º+) paths to the Dablam side. As we get close, we will come across an off/field (30-50º) that leads to the top of the mountain.

The view of Khumbu Icefall from the top, along with mountains like Nuptse, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, and Shishapangma, is jaw-dropping. After spending some time at the top, we will retrace our path back to Camp 2.7 and descend further to Camp II and Camp I, collecting all our luggage and waste.

  • Duration: 10 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

We have one additional day in our itinerary that we can use in case we see any weather disturbance during climbing. If we stay on our planned itinerary and do not use this contingency day, you will have one extra day in Kathmandu to spend.

  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

During our rest day at Ama Dablam Base Camp, we will clean the base camp and pack all our belongings. Our crew will be there to do the maximum work. This rest day will also let you reflect on your achievements and collect your mind before we begin trekking back to Lukla.

  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Leaving the base camp, we will trek back to Pangboche following a steep and rugged trail. From Pangboche, the trail ascends via lush rhododendron forests to Tengboche village. Further, we will descend from here to Phunki Tenga and ascend to Namche Bazaar. The trail offers beautiful landscapes and mountain views.

  • Duration: 6-7 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

From Namche Bazaar, the trail steeply descends and follows a forested path, crossing the Dudh Koshi river multiple times via suspension bridges. We will trek past villages like Monjo and Phakding. From Phakding, the trail ascends via lush rhododendron forests, crossing many suspension bridges and small settlements.

  • Duration: 6-7 hours
  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Today, we will be flying back to Kathmandu. The flight is short and scenic. Upon landing in Kathmandu, we will drop you at the hotel. You will have the full day to rest, unpack, repack, and shop. Explore the nearby tourist sites and explore the local markets. In the late evening, we will gather in a restaurant to celebrate our successful expedition and have a farewell dinner.

  • Duration: 35 minutes
  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast and farewell dinner

As your expedition comes to an end in Nepal, our representative will pick you up from the hotel as per your flight departure time and transfer you to the international airport.

Cost Includes
  • Pickup from/to the international and domestic airports via private vehicles as per the itinerary
  • Standard hotel lodging in Kathmandu on a twin shared bed with breakfast as per itinerary
  • Full board meal (breakfast, lunch, and dinner ) and local tea house accommodation during the trek
  • Highly experienced and medically trained licensed mountain guides with their meals, flight insurance, necessary equipment, accommodations, and salary
  • Hot drinks such as tea, boiled water, and coffee throughout the trek
  • Reliable local porter/helper (1 porter for 2 trekkers with maximum weights of 10kg each)
  • All the trekking and climbing documents and permits with the government taxes for the Ama Dablam expedition
  • Required personal and group climbing gear: climbing boot, crampons, ice axe, harness, jumar, carabiner, climbing rope, etc
  • Necessary camping gear such as a sleeping tent, mattress, dining tent, kitchen, and toilet tent
  • Supplementary oxygen cylinder with a comprehensive first-aid kit and Gamow bag in case of mountain sickness
Cost Excludes
  • Nepal entry visa fees
  • International airfare, airport taxes
  • Travel insurances
  • Extra backpacks charge.
  • Main meals and drinks in Kathmandu
  • Tips and personal expenses for a hot shower, battery charge, mineral water, telephone, etc
  • Extra accommodation which is not included in the itinerary due to any reason
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